Squares of toasted tofu have been part of the courtship ritual in Guiyang as far back as the war-torn years of the 1930s. Provided to China Daily

In Guiyang, little bars of beancurd are part of the courtship ritual. Qiu Bo traces the history of a snack known locally as "tofu in love".

If you ever get a chance to spend some time in Guiyang, the capital of Guizhou province in the southwestern part of China, you will find that the little snacks there are often more than just for filling a hungry gap.

In many cases they are often soul food - food that touches the heart - and they keep memories alive in a place where life is a little more relaxed than in the bustling metropolises.

Take the little bars of toasted beancurd the locals call "tofu in love". They don't look at all romantic, and may not meet your notions of what romance personifies, but there is a lovely story behind this popular snack.

Back in 1939, parts of China suffered constant air raids from Japanese forces and Guiyang was one of the main targets. Many bomb shelters were built into caves in the hilly suburbs such as the area near Pengjia Bridge and Dongshan, for citizens to hide from the military attacks.

Zhang Huafeng and his wife had been selling toasted tofu there for years, and when the air raids began, business just went on as usual and they continued selling their snacks. In fact, as more and more refugees gathered at the shelters, their tofu became more popular than ever. They tasted good and were affordable.

Many young people at the shelters would gather around, and as they ate their tofu, eyed each other and flirted. Soon, the talk would turn romantic.

As time went by, the tofu snack time helped many couples fall in love and Zhang and his wife decided to name their popular snack "tofu in love".

Seventy years later, the snack is still as popular as ever.

This is actually a piece of tofu about the size of a bar of chocolate, being 5 cm wide, 7 cm long and just about 3 cm thick.

The pieces of tofu are first soaked in a soda solution and then fermented on a piece of wet cloth for about 12 hours.

It is then grilled over cypress wood, and the smoky fire will get rid of any fermented sourness.

When the tofu is browned on both sides, the peddlers will rip it open with a skewer or stick and spoon in seasoning such as soy sauce, chili powder, chopped green onions, chopped radish and special local condiments.

As you bite into the piping hot snack, you get to savor the tender beancurd inside that is the "soul of tofu", and the delicious mix of seasonings that will get your juices going.

In the modern cities, couples court in coffee houses or restaurants, but in Guiyang's soft nights, young lovers still rendezvous along the banks of the Huaxi River and share a bar of "tofu in love" together.

And as they stroll besides the glittering river, they can take in the fresh air, bask in the soft moonlight and listen to the sound of children playing. When the ambience is right, even the taste of tofu can be the taste of love.

You can contact the writer atqiubo@chinadaily.com.cn.Zhang Yu contributed to the story.

(China Daily 10/01/2011 page9)