[Photo provided to China Daily]

Crystal shrimp dumplings (hargow) can suffer on a buffet or a rolling trolley. That never happens at Jing Yaa Tang's unlimited dim sum, served daily under the tight control of chef Li Dong.

Said to represent the skills a dim-sum chef is judged on, these translucent "shrimp bonnets" should have at least seven pleats imprinted on their wrappers. The skins of these Guangzhou-style delicacies must be thin and translucent, yet be sturdy enough not to break when picked up with chopsticks. The wrapper must not stick to the paper, container or the other hargow.

The Chinese restaurant at The Opposite House presents a nice selection of favorites from the Canton and Shanghai traditions, including pork shu mai with crab roe, xiao long bao and cha siu bao (barbecued pork bun). Baked and deep-fried dishes featured on the menu are ham sui gok (sweet and savory pork dumplings), pan-fried turnip cakes with homemade XO sauce, and crispy yam pastries. Served from noon to 2:30 pm; the price is 118 yuan ($19) per person, plus a 15-percent service charge. (Add the restaurant's signature Beijing roast duck to your dim sum feast for an extra 119 yuan for a half duck).

The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu (Road), Chaoyang district; reservations: jingyaatang@theoppositehouse.com or call 010-6410-5230.