There is the Tokyo school, and there is the Osaka school in Japanese cuisine, but what is served at Roka is more like cosmopolitan contemporary. That certainly seems to be the trend in major cities where restaurants now cater to global villagers.

Of course, there is the fine-tuning you have to do to pander to local taste buds.

Raw fish is an acquired taste, and many Chinese palates are unaccustomed to the subtlety of eating uncooked seafood. What they should do then is sample the sushi and sashimi platter that is part of Roka's seasonal menu.

The sashimi is so fresh you would probably be very wet if it gets any better. The salmon was tight-textured, with none of the flaking that indicates that it has been out of water too long. The yellowtail had a lovely bite to it that did not distract from its characteristic buttery density, and even the tuna, not one of my favorites, made me raise an eyebrow in appreciation.

The platter also includes a shot glass of Wagyu beef tartar, with roasted nori bread. My mother was enjoying it very much, and when I told her she was eating raw beef, she barely paused mid-spoon before continuing her meal. That was good testimonial indeed.

I love maki rolls, and I like sea urchin roe, and when the two comes together, it means the morsels disappear a little quicker than usual. The sea urchin roe was sweetly flavored, with not even a hint of the usual fishy aftertaste that taints even the freshest roe sometimes.

The other sushi duo on the platter was topped with slightly salted salmon roe and a few decorative chrysanthemum petals. Again, the roe was salty enough to excite the tongue, and could be instantly popped on the roof of the mouth with a lot of satisfaction.

By the time they took the sashimi and sushi platter away, I was finally ready to look up from my plate and assess the atmosphere around me.

While it is not exactly a casual dining destination, Roka has a nice comfortable feel about it - it's a place where you can relax and really enjoy your food without worrying too much about being on your best behavior.

Certainly, the family of four at the next table looked as if they were having fun, with a toddler in the high chair and the little boy eagerly leaning over his parents' plates. I like restaurants like that, where everyone can gather and enjoy fine dining without worrying too much about dressing up.

Make no mistake. Roka is not your shorts and slippers type of eatery. It is posh enough to have attracted a faithful following in London and Hong Kong with three restaurants, but it is a place where you can talk business during lunch and bring the family for a special meal in the evenings.

My reverie was interrupted by the arrival of a hotpot full of sweet prawns and clams bathed in a red miso soup. It is a winter warmer, and very comforting after the raw fish starter.

Everyone's favorite - tempura - is next on the table and we enjoy the light, crisp batter that coats the seafood and a nice assortment of vegetables.

Grilled Wagyu and black cod marinated in gingered miso are Roka's signature meat dishes and it is very hard to choose between them. Both are juicy and flavorful, so I reckon it's a choice of whether you prefer red meat or white.

Dessert, or dezato, is a vanilla pannacotta with strawberry compote spiked with basil, and accompanied by a scoop of strawberry sorbet. It is a smooth and satisfying finish to a very large meal.

Roka means "warm hearth with a burning fire" and I am sure the owners wanted to conjure up the pleasant image associated with that experience.

Executive chef Manabu Oikawa's cooking philosophy is telling. "Cook with your heart. Without it, it's impossible to achieve your finest work."

Obviously, this philosophy is carefully guarded in the Roka kitchens and in this case, heart is where the hearth is. Truly.

paulined@chinadaily.com.cn