A swimming pool for guests at The Edge, with a view of the ocean from the southern cliffs of Bali. Photos provided to China Daily

The view from Bene, the Italian restaurant at the Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort.

The Indonesian island of Bali is the perfect destination for a romantic getaway. Craig McIntosh discovers the delights of the popular holiday spot as he road tests five luxury resorts.

I've never read Eat Pray Love, and I don't intend to. Yet for a long time that book - or rather the people who had read it - shaped my view of Bali. Listening to these people talk, I was left with the image of a place where you can't go five minutes without tripping over a medicine man or a rich 50-something "taking time" to find a meaning to life. Not something that appealed, to be honest.

My wife was the one who talked me round to choosing Bali as a destination for our honeymoon. "It's a great place to relax," she promised. And after only a few hours into our holiday I found myself doing something I rarely do - I agreed with her.

For me, most people who come to Bali can be separated into two categories: Those who like to make noise and those who like to escape it.

For the former, there's no better place to be than Kuta. We started our stay at the Sheraton Bali Kuta, a relatively new five-star hotel that sits opposite the famous Kuta Beach and right next door to the even newer Beachwalk shopping mall.

I was wary of heading to Kuta, given its reputation as an "Ibiza for Aussies". Yet although surrounded by bars, restaurants and alley markets, all of which contribute to the area's party atmosphere, the Sheraton, with its marble decor, ocean-view pool and spa, is classy, comfortable and family friendly.

It also hit the right romantic note. On arrival, the sounds of traditional percussion instruments filled the lobby, as dancing girls placed flowers in our hair. A night did not go by without a knock on our door from a steward bearing "surprise candy," as my wife put it: A selection of jams one night, and on another, a white chocolate cup smothered in dark chocolate sauce.

Step outside and head south, and in 10 minutes you are at a street filled with big-name brands; walk the other way and you arrive in the relatively less developed Legian where beach vendors hawk satay skewers and rice cakes for just a few rupiah.

If you or your partner intend on spending a lot of time browsing for bargains, however, further up the island's east coast lies Seminyak, a shopper's paradise filled with boutique stores and high-end fashion outlets.

This was our next stop, staying at the W Retreat & Spa, a super-trendy hideaway perfect for young couples and the young at heart. If I had to describe the hotel in one word it would be "chilled".

Entering our room we found a celebratory bottle of Champagne on ice and two ready-to-mix pomegranate martinis waiting for us, while down-tempo tunes emanated from the room's sound system. "I'm sleeping out here," my wife said, as she gazed out at the ocean from our balcony. It was fair enough; I'd already claimed the mini bar.

The W has a large pool area facing onto Seminyak Beach that is perfect for families; an equally spacious spa that offers couples treatments and yoga at its AWAY spa; two restaurants, Fire and Starfish Bloo; and WooBar, which on weekends turns into a popular night spot for the expat crowd. It also has a quiet corner that would be perfect for an intimate wedding or blessing ceremony.

For those looking for somewhere a little quieter, on the southwest coast is Nusa Dua, an area that has long been known for its luxury resorts.

Mulia Resort & Villas, which opened early December, is a huge beachfront complex that has almost a palatial feel, largely thanks to its golden-tiled walls and smiling staff stationed on every corner.

Built on a steep cliff, the hotel was still partially under construction when we visited, including its spa and fitness center, but what was finished was impressive: Soliel is perfect for couples with a taste for fine dining, while Sky Bar and ZJ's Bar & Lounge are both ideal places for a late-night celebratory cocktail or three.

The best thing about the Mulia, however, is its pool area, complete with swim-up bar and chatty bartenders, and its beach, where guests can enjoy a range of water sports or lie back and enjoy a foot-rub.

Just down the coast is the Conrad Bali Resort & Spa. If you're looking for romance and a leafy environment close to the beach, this is a gem. To welcome us, our suite was stocked with a bottle of rose wine, fresh fruits and a selection of chocolates. To give it that extra "honeymoon" feel, on our bed was a tub of rose petals, scented candles and instructions for a romantic bath.

An amazing couples treatment is offered at its Jiwa Spa - I had a vitamin recharge, and my wife well, sorry, I didn't hear anything after my head massage started; I zoned out, and I didn't zone back in again until well after the 90 minutes was over - was followed by a few cocktails at Azure before topping off our stay with an intimate candle-lit dinner on Bale Beach, chowing down on surf and turf to the sound of the waves.

If you fancy having a ceremony in Bali, either to exchange or renew vows, there are few better places on the island than the Conrad's spectacular Infinity Chapel.

Although there are villages throughout Nusa Dua, there is little to see or do bar taking a wander, so many couples will find themselves spending much of their time on the resort. In fact, for many couples on their honeymoon, that's the plan. If that's the case, the place to be is The Edge.

Tucked away on the southern cliffs of Uluwatu's green Pecatu village, The Edge is made up of four private villas, 10 bedrooms in total. Each has its own butler, while the largest property, The View, has a 10-seat cinema and its own bar.

We stayed in The Mood, a two-bedroom villa, and I think it was the first time I can say I received the kind of service that can be described as "six-star". Meals were served in our dining room, before which one of the head chefs would pop round to find out what we fancied.

On our first night my wife and I ate on our patio and enjoyed a six-course meal tailored to each of our specific tastes, Bali lobster for her and tender lamb medallions for me.

Should you actually want to leave the confines of the villa, The Edge has a cozy bar and pool area where residents can mingle, while staff can also arrange a car to take you to nearby villages or on day trips further afield. Jimbaran Bay is just 20 minutes by car, while the monkey-infested Uluwatu Beach is just around the corner.

Contact the writer at sundayed@chinadaily.com.cn.

(China Daily 05/26/2013 page16)