If you run a smart jazz bar in Shanghai, having a logo that has the bar name’s initials blending into one another seems to be the trendy thing to do. Brown Sugar is a bar with a theme much like the other places in Xintiandi, but is distinctive enough to stand out and is worth a visit.

Brown Sugar is not only a bar – they have good food too. However, the small tables below the stage, the dim lighting, the loud ambient music before the live music starts and the prominence of the bar leave you with little doubt that Brown Sugar is about music and alcohol first and foremost.

The food is good European cuisine with a lot of old favourites on the menu as well as some unusual things to try. We tried lobster mousse with wasabi mayonnaise, sautéed shrimps with lemon juice and jalapenos, lobster bisque, cod with lemon and dill butter sauce, lamb shank gremolata, beef short rib with red wine sauce, fruit salad, tiramisu and chocolate cake with a kiwi coulis. I liked all the food and so did my dining partner, Lucinda. We agreed that the cod was particularly good. I liked the idea of wasabi mayonnaise, but would have liked to try more of it than I managed to scrape off the artistic smear we were given. The bisque is also worth trying.

The service was very good all evening, even after it started to get busy at 10. The wait staff was knowledgeable, purposeful and obliging. They spoke good English too.

The place itself is very stylishly decorated with a mezzanine and high ceiling. The bar is in the middle of the room, but the venue is still intimate despite the bar’s position and the expansiveness of the place. There are different areas to sit – seats and small, high tables around the bar for drinking and light eats, tables for more serious eating, and areas with sofas and low tables for relaxing and drinking. At one end is a large stage where they have music every night – Reggae on Thursdays, Salsa on Sundays and modern jazz on other nights.

Brown Sugar's owner is from Taiwan and prides itself on being a little exclusive. The prices are not outrageous, but there is a minimum order for seating areas other than the bar – tables cost more and sofas upstairs cost the most. I asked what distinguishes Brown Sugar from rival jazz bars and the answer was that they have American, rather than South-east Asian, musicians. Mandy Gaines was the guest singer and performed alongside Wink and other regular musicians there. They partnered well and I enjoyed hearing a few jazz standards. Wink’s saxophone solos were breathtaking.

The food was good and I would consider eating here if I wanted a smart looking place, though in this respect, competition is high in this part of town. Much more compelling were the music, drinks and atmosphere. Music starts at 9.15 and goes on until late.

Location

Building15, Lane 181, Taicang Road, North Block, Xintiandi Plaza, Shanghai上海新天地北里广场太仓路181弄15号楼. Tel:021-5382 8998

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Service quality:

very good

Food quality:

very good

Price per head (RMB):

300-400

Environment:

good

Feature dish or menu:

Beef short rib in red wine sauce