The teapots used to boil water must be of brass to make the traditional flavor, but the tables and chairs don't necessarily need to be all made of wood, Li said.

The decoration and service need to meet with modern customer's requirements, not the other way around, Li noted.

He also hires waitresses who are able to communicate with foreign customers in English, Li said.

Just like chatang, many other traditional snacks served at Nine Gates have interesting names.

Ludagun, or donkey rollover, is a glutinous yellow rice cake roll with fried bean flour sprayed onto the surface.

Wandouhuang, or pea yellow, is a mashed pea cake made from boiled and mashed peas and small Chinese jujubes.

Many local Beijingers come to the restaurant when they want to enjoy time with their families, especially senior members, said Li.