The meticulous tasting techniques used for fine wines do not apply to Moutai, a hard liquor made to be downed in shots from tiny cups.

But there are ways to appreciate this strong drink for those wishing to study it more closely, and they are also useful if you are trying to distinguish the authentic Kweichow Moutai from others. Certified baijiu taster Deng Qingqing, from the company, offers some tips for savoring the drink, using a bottle of "old" Moutai (whose exact age is kept confidential) for demonstration.

First, Deng says, observe the liquid in the cup. Real Moutai should adhere a little to the cup's side and have a slightly oily look. A watery look is not good. Real Moutai should be clear, acquiring a little tinge of beer-like gold as the years pass.

Then sniff the liquid for the signature "sauce aroma". Though the exact nature of the Moutai scent often differs for different tasters, the fragrance should be pleasant and clean.

Savor Moutai by spreading a thin layer on the tongue. Moutai should demonstrate a complex combination of flavors, bringing a small sweet sensation to the tip of the tongue, tartness to the sides and a little bitterness at the back of the tongue. The liquor should go down smoothly. Also, a seasoned drinker should be able to distinguish the strength of the alcohol (53 percent) at this stage.

It is best to drink moderately and responsibly, not exceeding the point of slight tipsiness, a euphoric stage that drinkers consider the best thing about Moutai.

(China Daily European Weekly 12/05/2014 page21)