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The Tao of Food

Updated: 2008-04-21 10:17

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It's no secret that the Chinese have always cherished exquisitely prepared, thoughtfully presented and delicious food. In China business has long been conducted over banquet tables and every Chinese friend will tell foreigners that no meeting or social gathering is considered complete without a good meal.

Food has been and remains a conduit to successful relationships between people at all levels, as well as a living metaphor that implies power and responsibility over others. Less than a hundred years ago, the old Chinese government still called the job of the chief executive “making adjustments to the tripods” because a tripod in Chinese refers to a cooking utensil. This term implies adjusting the flavors of the dishes being cooked in order to please diners' palates – and just like a capable diplomat the talented cook uses talent and technical skills to ply his trade.

The Tao of Food

 Yi Yin, a famous cook and also known as China's first prime minister

Not surprisingly, clever cooks creating tasty food have had unusual access to power throughout Chinese history. One of the most renowned examples was Yi Yin, who is known as China's first prime minister. He ultimately assisted Emperor Tang, ruler of the Shang Dynasty (C. 1600 BC–C. 1100 BC), to destroy Jie, the last ruler of the Xia Dynasty (C. 2100 BC–C. 1600 BC). Yi Yin had been a famous cook and a slave known as Ah Yeng before he became prime minister. This remarkable man actually won his ruler's trust through his skill at cooking great food. Tang became persuaded of Yi's diplomatic and social abilities after eating his dishes.

Throughout the centuries there have been other Chinese cooks who also took on political functions. Peng Zu, known as the founder of Chinese cooking, was chef to Emperor Yao around the beginning of the 21st century BC. Another capable chef, Yi Ya, became very close to his leader during the Qi State in the Spring and Autumn Period (770 BC–476 BC) - Prince Huan of Qi trusted him because he was good at cooking and identifying flavors. Shao Kang, the seventh emperor of the Xia Dynasty, had formerly been an official in charge of the kitchen service for Youyushi before the Xia Dynasty was founded.

The Tao of Food

 Peng Zu, known as the founder of Chinese cooking, was chef to Emperor Yao around the beginning of the 21st century BC.

But not all chefs used their power benignly; some had nefarious motives. Zhuan Zhu of the Wu State served as an assassin in the late years of the Spring and Autumn Period. In order to support Prince Guang's rise, he learned a special technique of "roasting fish" from a famous chef. Through his culinary deftness, he was able to meet Prince Liao of the Wu State, the enemy of Guang, and assassinate him.

During the Song Dynasty female chefs became extremely popular. Known as Chu Niang these women charged higher fees than their male counterparts while serving the imperial family, nobility, scholars and wealthy patrons. At one point female chefs were in such high demand that a school was established solely to graduate female culinary artists. The school taught manners, presentation, organizational tactics and conduct along with culinary skills.

Sometimes these women directed enormous banquets and thus acted as a conductor does while directing a symphony. One renowned female chef, Song San Niang, sat at a desk while she presided over a "Thousand Guest Banquet" for Premier Wang Zeng. With her staff of over eighty assistants this remarkable woman used little colored flags to give orders. She hoisted blue, red, yellow, purple and white flags to indicate to her staff in matching uniforms when to start steaming, boiling, frying or cooking something. Not only did she effectively and efficiently put out the food but also she put on a great dramatic display for the premier's guests.

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