Xu of the Beijing Western Food Association says there is a shortage of about 60,000 to 70,000 service industry staff in the capital alone, ranging from serving staff to chefs and managers.

"The numbers show a shortage of millions throughout China," she says.

The shortage is attributed to the rapid development of the mid to high-end restaurant industry in the nation's newest metropolises.

"In the past, many serving staff in the big cities came from smaller cities," Xu says. "Young people want to go to big cities, either for more money or to broaden their horizon. But now the salary in small cities is just as high, so they are staying in small cities near their hometowns."

Also, while in the US and Europe it is common to see middle-aged employees in the service industry, in China this is rarely the case. And for foreign restaurants, which often pride themselves not just on food, but on service and the dining experience, a much higher level of training is required for restaurant staff.

"In a Western restaurant you need to learn the etiquette of that country, characteristics of its food, and also many cross-cultural things," Xu says.

Though the higher professional standards often mean higher wages, with Western establishments paying slightly higher than the Beijing average of 2,500 yuan a month, there are simply too few qualified candidates.

So while there is demand for Western food and too few places to cater for it, companies that can create a product pleasing to the Chinese palate are almost guaranteed success.

"Chinese people see gastronomy as an important part of their culture and are willing to spend a lot of money on food," Xu says. "For Chinese consumers, it's not just a matter of eating to live, but also an important form of entertainment."

Contact the writers at toddbalazovic@chinadaily.com.cn and chenyingqun@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily 03/01/2013 page12)