The Milan plan

Updated: 2013-01-25 09:35

By Lv Chang and Hu Meidong (China Daily)

  Comments() Print Mail Large Medium  Small 分享按钮 0

In Italy, with the silk city, Como, and a wool processing and textile center in Biella, Milan also forms a fashion industry triangle, accounting for more than 21 percent of the local economy.

"Like Milan, Shishi has some obvious advantages - the complete industrial chain, most skilled workers and the most advanced production equipment," says Zhang Qinghui, deputy secretary-general of China Fashion Week Organizing Committee and Chinese Clothing Designer Association. "But what makes one city a magnet for the fashion world is its original design and the ability to be flexible and understand changing tastes and trend."

This is where Shishi needs to improve, says Zhang, and it can learn from Milan, a city that has more than 1,000 mid-to-high end brands.

He sees the plan based on the International Textile and Garment Center as a way for young designers to showcase their work to clothing companies.

"The whole Milan project is not an abstract concept. It works out the ways in which Shishi can bridge the gap with the world's top fashion city," he says.

The Milan plan

 

The fashion industry thrives on hype, but no one is under the illusion that bridging that gap and transforming the city's clothing producers into masters of design will be a smooth ride or reach glorified heights any time soon.

Liu Yiqun, designer and president of Wolf Zone, says domestic clothing brands have developed very fast and everything is new, but only a few will last because of the lack of long-term brand vision.

"In China many are imitating foreign brands, because the fashion industry here is pretty much in its infancy," says Liu, rated as one of China's top 10 fashion designers in 2012.

Chinese clothing brands struggle to penetrate the fast-growing domestic fashion market because they lack history as well as kudos, he says.

"Long tradition has been a mainstay for globally recognized luxury products. When you look at the logos of many foreign famous brands, they always begin with 'Since', which distinguishes it with a history and a story behind it."

Related reading:
The Milan plan Keeping it in the family
The Milan plan Men's wear wolf in the pack

Aside from playing a part in promoting their hometown's image, Shishi's few original designers, such as Liu and Yang Ziming, CEO of Cabbeen, an upscale men's clothing brand, are trying to attract more attention to their own styles by focusing on detail.

Yang, who is the first designer from China to hold a show at New York Fashion Week, says he put his own spin on style by adding unusual touches such as ornamental buttons and metal badges that wearers can mix and match as they please.

"Today, Chinese consumers are more fashion conscious, even men. They want something cutting-edge that can speak for who they are," says 41-year-old Yang.

For Shishi producers, for whom design is less of a priority, investing heavily in research and development, and trying to overcome distribution obstacles, are the main challenges on the road to brand success.

Lu Qi's brand is said to be leaving a lasting impression in the marketplace.

"We built up a very strong design team to expand our collections, focusing on the more fashion-conscious 20- to 40-year-old market segment," says Lu, the vice-president of Diking Group, one of China's leading men's wear manufacturers. "Our design concept conveys the soul of our brand - elegant, classic and simple."

Lu's company started selling in the domestic market under the Diking label in 2003, having realized its potential and the changing trends in fashion.

Before that, the company was an export-oriented manufacturer for the world's big fashion houses.

Now domestic sales account for 65 percent and it competes successfully with foreign brands.

The switch to the home market forced Lu to employ professional designers and bring in an experienced team of marketing and branding consultants.

"The cost of doing one's own brand is very high," he says. "You need to hire fashion designers, participate in fashion shows and organize marketing campaigns.

"The cost of hiring a top-level chief designer alone will be around 5 million yuan."

Contact the writers at lvchang@

chinadaily.com.cn and humeidong@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily 01/25/2013 page16)

Previous Page 1 2 Next Page

Related Stories

Keeping it in the family 2013-01-25 09:35
Men's wear wolf in the pack 2013-01-25 09:35