Chinese restaurants in London put authenticity on menu

Veteran celebrity TV chef Ken Hom said attitudes toward Chinese food have changed "enormously". Provided to China Daily

Whenever Bai Bing relishes the prospect of a good Chinese meal, she will treat herself at HKK, an upmarket Chinese restaurant in London's financial district specializing in regional dishes with a modern touch.

"I enjoy dining in restaurants like HKK because not only do they offer authentic regional Chinese cuisine but also provide a pleasant dining experience with quality service and a nice ambience," Bai said. The 29-year-old works for a multinational corporation, and she came to London from China's eastern coastal province of Zhejiang in 2009, first to study and then to work.

Authentic Chinese cuisine is becoming increasingly popular in the UK and the dishes on offer have progressed significantly over the last three decades.

"The British palate is growing, and people are becoming more interested in new and interesting flavors," said Luo Bing, head chef at Hutong, a Chinese restaurant in London's iconic Shard building, which offers authentic northern Chinese and Sichuan cooking.

Luo believes that as people travel more, they are more open to trying new things. As a result, the clientele of the restaurant is very mixed, but around 20 percent of all guests are still Chinese who appreciate the taste of home cooking while far from home.

One of the most popular dishes at Hutong is "Red Lantern", crispy soft-shell crab deep-fried with Sichuan chilies and served in a Chinese bamboo basket bedded with more dried chilies.

Luo said, because the dish delights customers with its authenticity and unusual presentation, it is well received by both Chinese and Western customers.

Veteran celebrity TV chef Ken Hom said attitudes toward Chinese food have changed "enormously".

"Chinese food at the beginning of the 80s was sweet and sour pork, mainly. Most Brits had a very stereotypical view of Chinese food. Now you are seeing more regional Chinese food, and it is no longer just Cantonese food," he said.

With an increasing number of Chinese people living in the UK, and more arriving, upscale Chinese restaurants are making inroads into British restaurant culture.

Hakkasan Group has opened four different Chinese restaurants in the capital to cater for an increasing demand for Chinese fine dining. On average, about 40 percent of their customers are of Asian origin.

With modern authenticity at its heart, Hakkasan restaurant has redefined the modern Chinese fine-dining approach, offering a dining experience combining Cantonese cuisine and dramatic interior design.

Chef Tong Chee Hwee, executive head chef at Hakkasan and HKK, said: "The presentation of the dish is very important when it comes to authentic Chinese cuisine as every dish has its own character and when each dish is developed, all of the details of presentation are applied accordingly."

Tong believes diners nowadays are more health conscious and are more aware of nutritional value.

"We are using more organic ingredients than previously, and using more seasonal ingredients to get the best of our dishes at the restaurants," he said, adding there is more emphasis on plating and the restaurant environment, which wasn't, previously, regarded with much importance.

HKK is a high-end Chinese restaurant under the Hakkasan Group umbrella. The restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star in 2013, less than a year after opening.

In the run-up to the Chinese New Year at the end of January, HKK celebrated Chinese imperial dining for Spring Festival with an interpretation of the ancient and extravagant emperor's feasts, showcasing customs and traditions that took place.

As culinary tastes develop in the UK capital, the range of regional flavors is likely to increase and spread across the country, Tong said.