Lights in the Paresa's large infinity pool seem to flow into the night sky, enhancing the sense of solitude. Photos Provided to China Daily

Phuket has a reputation for crowds, but couples can find romantic interludes easily on the island.

Cliff-side villas are trending in Phuket. They offer privacy and scenic luxury.

The private pool at our cliff-side villa is a symbol of all that was good about Phuket, Mike Peters finds.

The pool. ... oh, my god, the pool! I had never imagined that my much-anticipated trip to Phuket would turn me into one of those characters in the Ron Howard film Cocoon. You know the one: Space aliens crash land in a Florida suburb, take on human form and hide their "cocoons" in a secluded estate's swimming pool. Some old folks from the nearby retirement home climb the fence for a dip, and find themselves rejuvenated by swimming in what turns out to be a modern-day fountain of youth.

The pool, of course, becomes an obsession.

I didn't go to Phuket for the sake of a swimming pool - we have them in Beijing, after all - but the oh-so-private infinity pool outside our cliff-side villa at the Paresa resort soon became the symbol of why Phuket was so right for a vacation.

As a vacation destination, many veterans of Thailand travel are quick to pooh-pooh Phuket. So crowded. So commercial. So last-year. So ... over. (I often hear the same nonsense about Austin, Texas, the delightful capital of my home state in the US.)

As my partner and I relaxed in the lovely blue-tiled pool that hugged our deck, looking beyond the cliff edge to the seemingly bluer Andaman Sea, the peaceful solitude was almost palpable. Sunrise was so electric you could smell it in the coffee; sunsets were just serene and magical.

While funkier accommodations still lure plenty of backpackers, Phuket's expansive area and scenic cliffs have spawned a luxury resort industry that has blossomed since the island was savaged by the tsunami of 2004. Today, we can see no sign of that awful human tragedy.

Phuket has more surprises.

More than two centuries ago, Chinese businessmen and migrant workers swarmed the island, seeking their fortunes in the tin mines that drove the port's economy as European traders plied the surrounding waters.

Today the "local" population of the Phuket Old Town is 90 percent Chinese, and while the Portuguese never made Phuket a colony, the legacy of the "Sino-Portuguese era" is vibrant in the old city center's colonial-style architecture and its Chinese food and temples.

Today's Chinese arrivals tend to have made their money already.

A branch of the Shanghai-Hong Kong gallery collective Island 6 has just set up shop in a popular marina, with art that celebrates Chinese heritage. A villa resort, similar to the one we call "ours", is named "Xi'an" and guarded by Terracotta Warriors in a rainbow of hues. In the wedding party celebrating in luxury at our hotel, the bride is a lovely young woman from Shanghai.

Less surprising are the beaches. Phuket is famous for its pristine stretches of luminous sand - and the aquamarine waters and rosy sunsets that frame its postcard vistas. The beaches are still a big draw, most on the north side are fairly quiet while those on the south side can be Party Central. You can get a beer, a massage, a jet-ski, an oh-so-fresh scoop of fried calamari - probably all at the same time if you like.

There are muay thai camps right on the beach, and buffed and tanned instructors ready to help you wind-surf, sail, snorkel or dive.

The most popular (translation: most crowded) area, Patong beach, sports rows of canvas chairs occupied by cheerful Russians that stretched as far as the eye could see.

If that side of Phuket is daunting, you can hop a speedboat for a day trip to a more secluded spot, such as James Bond favorite Phi Phi island or the nature paradise that is Koh Maphrao.

We took a half-day tour to see what makes Phuket tick, from the old town to a street-food lunch to the grand Wat Chalong temple. We were thrilled, passing by a smaller local temple, to happen upon a young monk's consecration.

Late in the afternoon, signs with arrows pointing the way to "Big Buddha" took us to an immense white statue on a mountaintop, where you can sample a delicious mango, durian snacks or local ice cream.

Our last stop was the crowded sands of Patong beach.

Despite enjoying the most vibrant charms of Thailand's largest island, we couldn't wait to get back to the restful quiet of our cliff-side retreat, where succulent shrimp and other seafood awaited us from our choice of either the Italian or the Thai kitchen.

As we enjoyed a private evening dinner at the resort's large infinity pool, we savored a flaming sunset as if there was no one in Phuket except our lucky two selves.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn.

(China Daily 05/04/2014 page10)