Hamburg's centuries-old fish market has evolved from selling fish to selling everything: fresh fruits, vegetables and colorful flowers. Photos by Qin Zhongwei / China Daily

Do hamburgers come from Hamburg? It's all become moot for Qin Zhongwei as he enjoys the Saturday nightlife of the ancient city and an early-morning breakfast of fish burgers at its famous fish market.

Hamburg, the northern harbor city of Germany, has nothing to do with Big Macs and other American-style fast food. Instead, this is the second largest city in Germany and the country's artistic hub.

Its name may mislead unknowing Chinese tourists into thinking it's the home of hamburgers, but it is far from that. This is Germany's largest port, the country's vibrant center of musicals, the place where the legendary Beatles first got international attention, and a shopping paradise packed with high-end boutiques and malls.

But to experience authentic Hamburg, there is one place you have to go where you can eat, drink and party like the locals - and it's at the centuries old fish market.

The market dates back to 1703 when it was first opened to the public. Now, the open-air market lights up every Sunday from 5 am to 10 am, and it is a celebrated tradition for Hamburgers to sacrifice some sleep, get out of bed early and head to the fish market.

Located just next to the historic fish auction hall at Hamburg harbor, the market is also near Reeperbahn, the city's famous red-light district. However, Reeperbahn has turned to the relatively more respected trades of bars and pubs for all-night trawlers.

There are often enthusiastic locals eager to show you the way, and the ropes. If you want to taste the real flavor of the city, drink and dance all Saturday night at the pubs in Reeperbahn and then grab some fish burgers as breakfast at the nearby fish market the next morning. Just like the locals.

Whether you are an owl or a lark, the market is definitely worth visiting. No matter how early you get there, you are sure to find the market packed with "early birds" there to catch the best buys just off the boat: salmon, sole, cod, eel, crabs from the Baltic Sea

You can buy the seafood to take home or give way to the need for instant gratification at the scattered food stands that also sell takeaway. Their specialty is fresh burgers made with fish just caught.

The Germans are known for their epicurean capacity. As one German philosopher said, cold dishes prepared for 7,000 Frenchmen are probably just enough for 70 Germans from Hamburg.

In order not to "lose face" in front of our German foodies, I strongly suggest you try two burgers, not one. First, demolish one of the typical fish burgers made from salmon or tuna, and then turn your attention to a burger made with crispy Baltic shrimps.

Just imagine the colorful pink of the shrimps, covered with bright red chili sauce and yellow onions, and you get a picture of a mouth-watering treat.

Over the centuries, the fish market has evolved from selling fish to selling everything: fresh fruits, vegetables, colorful flowers (Germans love flowers), German sausages, cheese, "I Love Hamburg" T-shirts, shoes, and a lot more.

You may find some Made-In-China souvenirs among them, and sometimes hear phrases of familiar Mandarin from Chinese tourists bargaining with German vendors.

One unique and sometimes hilarious characteristic of the market is its rambunctious way of doing business. Many items in this market are sold in bulk, sometimes directly from the back of the truck, and things become very hectic when vendors are shouting or yelling with all their might to sell off flowers or baskets of fruits, all the while trying to lure customers waiting for closing time to pick up the best bargains.

To add to the carnival atmosphere, there are live music performances, which makes the Sunday morning in the market so much more attractive.

Then, the historic fish auction hall at the center of the market is turned into a huge indoor venue for live bands, choirs and groups.

There is usually a wide variety of musical genres, from jazz to country, rock 'n' roll to pop. The morning I visited, they were playing a combination of hard rock and pop.

There are two stages in this old auction hall. One rock band was singing at one end, and an amateur choir of middle-aged women singers was belting out the more melancholic Abba songs.

Passionate locals were dancing freely and their infectious enthusiasm got the audience laughing and clapping along.

The Germans often have a reputation of being stoic, but if you could see them at the Hamburg Fish Market, you would definitely revise that perception.

You may contact the writer at qinzhongwei@chinadaily.com.cn.

The historic fish auction hall at the center of the market is turned into a huge indoor venue for live bands, choirs and groups. Vendors and customers bargain inside the market.