Scallop with pea foam and crispy woba. [Photo provided to China Daily]

"Everyone wants their 15 minutes of fame," he shrugs. "My personality craves attention. When I was an engineer, I was never interviewed! And cooking has become more and more a talent that people want to show off. It's like karaoke. Every one wants to be a singer. But I want to go beyond simply cooking."

Despite never having worked in a professional kitchen before, Leung took over Bo and began to showcase his experimental cooking to a city of potential guinea pigs.

At first, it was very hit and miss. There were two temperature steamed eggs and long explanations about which order to consume the tasting menu with sometimes 20 courses. But his attention to detail and willingness to go his own way had critics raving. And as Leung's dishes became more refined, a distinctive style of cooking emerged.

He calls it reverse banana, referencing the derogatory nickname applied to the children of Chinese immigrants in Western countries.

"My food is white on the outside and yellow on the inside," he states with pride. The presentation may resemble those found in the best three-Michelin star gastronomic establishments in Paris, but their ingredients, techniques and influences are predominantly Chinese.

"I'm an engineer by nature," Leung says. "What's logical? I'm Chinese. I was exposed to a lot of Chinese food when I was growing up. Chinese cuisine has the longest and most diverse heritage. I'm lucky I wasn't born an Eskimo - it would be difficult to make haute cuisine out of whale blubber. Maybe I can try that when I open a restaurant in Toronto."

Leung tackles every new dish as a problem to be solved.

If he wants to create a new coconut dessert, he would brainstorm with everything from coconut curry to coconut cream pie. He would examine coconut products, such as oil or sugar. He would pair coconut with unusual ingredients, such as apple or pine nuts. It's like a series of flow charts and bubble diagrams moving inside his head.

For his guest stint at Jaan in Raffles Beijing early March, Leung plans to present his spin on northern fare such as jiaozi, using common ingredients like bamboo shoots and rice noodles.

"I want to create something recognizable and related to the north, so that you can see my process and the art that goes into each dish."

Leung admits that he has had a busy year. After opening a London edition of Bo Innovation and casual dining eateries Beautifood around Hong Kong, he wants to take some time away from the kitchen to regroup.

"I want diners to leave feeling they have had a spectacular meal," he states. "I hope that the wow factor is still in my food, even though I'm no longer an unknown."

sundayed@chinadaily.com.cn

The southern barbarian	Big red robe on the cliff