Cross-the-bridge noodles is a signature Yunnan dish. [Photo by Fan Zhen / China Daily]

What is also great about Southern Barbarian is that each dish has a spice rating of zero to five chilies, a good marker for both spice lovers and pepperphobics.

We ordered the chili beef on toothpicks with crispy fried mint leaves that came with a three chili rating. A classic Yunnan dish, the beef was tender and lean, surrounded by chilies and crispy mint leaves that added just the right amount of freshness to the fried dish.

The wild mushroom and chicken casserole appeared plain and unassuming at first, but the stock is one of the best I've ever tasted, bringing out the excellent rich flavors of the wild mushrooms, combined with the tender pieces of chicken.

Since mushrooms are a must at any Yunnan restaurant, we ordered another dish that included them: fresh seasonal boletus mushrooms with peppers. It was a simple dish, relying on the red bell-pepper and the fresh mushrooms to carry it along. A little spicy, the rich mushrooms were well balanced by the sweet peppers.

The signature cross-the-bridge noodles came with homemade chicken broth, pork slices, chicken, kidney, ham, crispy pork, quail eggs, vegetables and mushrooms. It may be Yunnan's most traditional noodles but at Southern Barbarian, the modern presentation made it a total dining experience.

The homemade chicken broth, pork slices, chicken, kidney, ham, crispy pork, quail eggs, vegetables and mushrooms were brought out separately and mixed at our table. Delicious, and easy to share, this dish brought a touch of theater to our table.

With great food, great drinks and spectacular service, Southern Barbarian is a place we will definitely revisit soon. Maybe by then, we will have worked up the courage to order some honey bees and grasshoppers.

Contact the writer at sundayed@chinadaily.com.cn.

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