Google "British food" and you get a distracting list that includes haggis, pork pie and black pudding. But apart from sheep's intestine stuffed with meat and vegetables, a pie with chopped pork and pork juice jelly sealed in a hot water crust pastry and a thick sausage made with blood and fat, you also get fish and chips.

In London, the Olympic hordes are probably enjoying fish and chips around every corner. For less than a fiver ($7.80), you can go away with a heaped portion of beer battered fish and wedges of potatoes accompanied by tartar sauce in a white take-away box.

In Shanghai nowadays, fish and chips is nothing new, although it may still be less popular than the favorite tummy-filler of a rice pancake rolled up with fried dough sticks.

More and more British-style restaurants and bars have appeared, starting with the cafe at Marks and Spencer, the thoroughly British department store, which offers fish and chips served with green peas.

Go a little more up market, and you get a restaurant run by Alfred Dunhill, those posh retailers who have decided to branch into a bit of posh nosh.

Alfie's by KEE is hidden inside the Dunhill flagship store at Plaza 66, a commercial and office complex in downtown Shanghai, where top fashion brands from around the world rub shoulders.

It takes some courage to walk into the store under the eagle-eyed gaze of shop assistants, but persevere and you will soon find the restaurant and bar downstairs. It is an elegant and well-designed space for a spot of lunch or high tea.

Alfie's was opened in May 2009 and managed and operated by KEE, a high-end private members club.

Unlike an ordinary restaurant, Alfie's sofas and tables are in various sizes and colors, and seem more like a VIP room for guests to take a break from shopping.

And indeed, it was planned as such.

"It's good for wives and girlfriends to sit here and have a drink while their partners try on the clothes," says Karen Yang, marketing director of KEE.

It is a nice intimate place where you can sample British favorites like fish and chips, with a menu designed by Neil Tomes, the celebrated head chef of Alfie's by KEE in the Hong Kong Home of Alfred Dunhill.

What sort of food will go well with the decor? You can expect excellent fish and chips, and the wives and girlfriends will definitely appreciate the toffee banoffi and apple crumble and vanilla ice cream. We are told they are perfect matches with the Earl Grey tea.

lixinzhu@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily 08/11/2012 page12)