Tim Harrap, export manager of Adams Foods Limited, looks at the Chinese market with both reservation and anticipation.

"You hear different stories," he says when asked about the market prospects of Pilgrims Choice cheddar, his company's signature product, in China.

"You hear that Chinese people don't like cheese, because it's not part of your culinary culture.

"But it was the same in Japan when the US came in after WWII. But gradually sales improved. It was not huge, but it was rewarding."

The British businessman was with a delegation of 30 EU business leaders, representing an array of world-famous European foods and beverages. They included Parma ham from Italy, Roquefort cheese from France and Tokaj wine from Hungary, as well as Swedish vodka and Scotch whisky.

Led by EU commissioner for Agriculture and Rural Development Dacian Ciolos, the delegation visited Shanghai, Hangzhou and Beijing, to promote quality European agricultural products carrying Geographical Indications (GIs), reflecting the special place of origin of the product, and learn more about China's celebrated gastronomic traditions.

Harrap says he was impressed by Hangzhou's geography that has produced quality products as Longjing tea.

"It is good to know that people appreciate quality products," he says.

A 2006 study showed that Chinese and other Asian foods are the most popular foreign foods in the European Union with a 42 percent market share. Meanwhile, EU has more than 3,200 registered GI foods, wines and spirits, according to Ciolos.

He says he wishes to encourage an interest in quality products among ordinary Chinese consumers, instead of just among connoisseurs.

"Our cooperation with China on the trade of quality foods is extremely promising," he says, "(because) we represent the two areas with the longest and richest culinary arts."

Pointing out that entering a market with preconceived notions is full of pitfalls, Harrap refers to a taste test for cheese he conducted among young Japanese women five years ago. He was sure it would show a clear preference for milder cheese, but actually the strongest cheese came up tops.

"You can't make assumption about any market," he says. "Young people are key to transforming a market for a new product like cheddar, which takes 9-12 months to make."

Ciolos inaugurated a new baking center for Shanghai Young Bakers, a volunteer training program.

He also awarded prizes to the winners of a competition to pick the best dishes representing a mix of European and Chinese influences, and announced a weeklong promotion of European GI products in several top Shanghai restaurants.

China Daily