After the head is cut off, the rest of the goat can be used for other dishes, he says.

"Then you have to soak the goat head in cold water at least twice, cleaning all the blood left; the first time requires at least one hour," says Ma. "And then we can start to boil the head and put seasonings into it."

It takes Ma three to four hours to cook.

Ma says the flavor may be affected by the ingredients used when boiling. Different chefs have different recipes: The goat head is traditionally cooked using onions, garlic, ginger, chilies, herbs and other seasonings. The delicacy is not unique to China or even Central Asia. One old Italian tradition calls for goat head to be served to the bride and groom on their wedding day.

The chef says some friends have urged him to open restaurants in cities outside Ningxia, but he has declined all offers.

"The most important part of cooking is finding the right material," he says. "In other cities, I cannot find the best goat, and all the goat head I cook there will not be the same as in Yinchuan."

Mike Peters contributed to this story.

If you go

Zheng Zheng Hong Restaurant: Hui Specialty

Zhengyuan street, Jinfeng district, Yinchuan. 0951-5076086 or 13895617767.

About this series

China Daily is featuring different cuisines from countries along the Silk Road every Thursday.

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