Benlai Cookhouse has access to the freshest meats and products sourced at home and abroad. [Photo by Feng Yongbin/China Daily]

"I hope customers will be able to observe how we cook," Guo says proudly. Cooking is not just processing of ingredients, but also a process of creation-a beautiful art, he adds.

The restaurant doesn't have a menu, and requires making a reservation a day before or at least before noon.When customers call, the receptionist will ask what they eat and what they don't, and then the chefs will design courses tailored to requests. There are about five courses for each diner including dessert.

Bread is a delicious surprise: There are four kinds of major breads in the restaurant. The little cheese bun tastes moderately sweet; ball­shaped spinach bread has a strong and pleasant wheat flavor; hemisphere­shaped bread is made with olives, honey and salt, and has very soft texture; a square­shaped bread is made with onion, potato and olive oil, and is very chewy and tasty.

The appetizer on a recent visit was New Zealand scallop salad, which consisted of semi­crystal shrimps and creamy scallops. They were soft and chewy, and so fresh that I could smell the scent of sea as I ate them.