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Time ticking for Bund's iconic clock

By XING YI | China Daily | Updated: 2019-01-05 07:07
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The Customs House clock has been a fixture on the Bund in Shanghai for more than 90 years. [Photo by WANG YADONG/FOR CHINA DAILY]

The hourly chiming of the Customs House clock on the Bund has aroused nostalgia from the people of Shanghai for more than 90 years. But after so many years of service, the clock is ticking on its own possible retirement, which could come as soon as next month.

The clock was built by British clockmaker JB Joyce& Co following the design of Big Ben in London. Its bell was cast by England's centuries-old John Taylor & Co bell foundry.

It was installed in 1927 atop the 90-meter Customs House tower, at the time the tallest structure on the Bund. The clock remains a focal point today.

The clock is the largest in Asia. Its 3.17-meter copper minute hand weighs 49 kilograms, while its 2.3-meter hour hand is 37.5 kg, according to the clockmaker's parent company, Smith of Derby.

"It's a mechanical clock, so it requires winding every three days," said Wei Yunsi, who has served as the only timekeeper for the clock for the past 28 years.

Every 15 minutes, it used to chime the Westminster Quarters, a four-bell chime used to mark the quarter-hour, like every clock made in the United Kingdom. But starting with the "cultural revolution" (1966-76), the famous Chinese revolutionary song The East is Red, played over a speaker, took the place of the quarter-hour chimes. In 1986, when Queen Elizabeth II visited Shanghai, the clock resumed the mechanical chimes of Westminster Quarters at the request of the queen.

"But after some time it turned out that Chinese still prefer Chinese songs," said Wei, adding that the clock again started playing The East is Red on July 1, 1997, when Hong Kong returned to the motherland.

After serving locals as a timekeeper and historic touchstone for decades, however, the clock has aged to the point that it is not functioning normally, according to Cheng Liang, publicity officer for the Shanghai customs administration.

"Over the past few years, the clock has stopped ticking or has run too fast or too slow several times," Cheng said. "We invited local clocksmiths to make some fixes in 2017."

Cheng added that customs has also contacted the British clock company for an overall examination to decide whether the giant mechanical clock should be retired or repaired.

Chang Qing, a designer of traditional Chinese clothing, has been working in the building next to the Customs House for 12 years.

"The tolling of the bell has a sense of history, and it gives me inspiration in designing qipao," he said of the form-fitting Chinese dress often associated with Shanghai. "When I work late in the night, the bell's sound makes me feel warm-it's like there's someone always waiting for me out there."

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