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Xishuangbanna, China's enchanting tropical borderland

By Bruce Connolly | chinadaily.com.cn | Updated: 2018-04-14 10:33
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Carrying back-baskets Damenglong 1999. [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

The Xishuangbanna Dai autonomous region derives its name from the Dai phrase Sip song panna, or "12 rice-growing districts". This was until recent years a remote part of southwestern China sharing many ethnic, cultural, linguistic and physical characteristics with neighboring countries. Since the 1950s, considerable effort has gone into eradicating potential threats of tropical disease, as such areas were avoided in the past. In coming years it will be part of a railway corridor connecting Kunming with Laos and on to Thailand — a major project designed to facilitate connectivity and trade between China and Southeast Asia.

Maybe it was its soporific, tropical atmosphere, but Jinghong felt more like a laid-back small town in the late '90s, particularly when compared to Kunming, the provincial capital. Its atmosphere was something I could embrace, even on descent to what was then a relatively small airport. At that time, flying was the only feasible option for anyone on a tight itinerary, including my groups. It is still the main route for most visitors, though the road journey that previously took a day or more due to mountainous road conditions have now been considerably shortened following expressway construction.

Jinghong had its modern palm-fringed streets, but I could not escape the feeling it was different from other Chinese cities. It felt both relaxing and exotic. What I enjoyed about the downtown area was sitting in the evenings at street food stalls or exploring the bustling food markets with their range of exotic foods and spices — sizzling sounds filled the air. A pleasant way to end the day.

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